de Santiago / French Way : 29. O Cebreiro - Triacastela
O Cebreiro you take the main road or a
path towards your next stop, the village of Liñares
which is about 3 kilometres away.
Liñares there is a small café, a shop and
the small 12th century church la Igrexa de Santo
Estevo. Accommodation can be found at a casa rural.
will note as you walk through Galicia that all signage
is now in Gallego (Galician), very rarely will you
see any signage with the Spanish alternative on
it so I will give you the Galician name from here
on in. Most guide books still seem to provide the
Spanish name which may confuse the traveller.
through the village and join the road at the end
following the markers to a rough track which runs
parallel with the road. The path now climbs steeply
for a kilometre up to the Alto de San Roque.
here you will get fabulous views across the mountains,
on a clear day that is. There is a small chapel
to San Roque but the most photographed image is
that of the large bronze statue of a pilgrim facing
towards Santiago, holding onto his hat against the
path continues climbing and after 1.5 kilometres
you reach the small village of Hospital da Condesa.
As the name suggests there used to be a pilgrim
hospital here, built in the 9th century by Doña
Egilo, the wife of Conde Gantón. The small church
Igrexa de San Xoan, like the one up in O Cebreiro
was restored in the 1960's. There is a small modern
albergue here along with a café, but the café is
not always open.
through to the end of the village and down a minor
road sign posted to Sabugos. This will take you
along a lane and then a track through the small
hamlet of Padornelo. Once through the hamlet
the track begins to climb steeply towards the Alto
do Poio 3 kilometres away.
Alto de Poio there is an Albergue which is
situated at the back of the Café Puerto, you need
to ask at the bar first. If you happen to be doing
the Camino in the autumn/winter you will always
find a roaring log fire going in the bar to warm
you up. There is also a private hostal/restaurant
in the village and a small shop.
through the village and down the road forking right
to walk down a track parallel to the road down to
the village of Fonfría in 3.5 kilometres.
village gets its name from its fountain Fons Frigida
or cold spring. During the 16th century there used
to be a pilgrim hospital here that would give heat,
salt and water and a bed with two blankets to healthy
pilgrims and to the sick a piece of bread, eggs
and butter as well. In the small church there is
a 17th century silver chalice which has engraved
on it “Soy hospital de Fon Fría”. For modern pilgrims
the local albergue offers a bed for the night as
well as a good pilgrim menu and breakfast in the
morning. There is also another café in the village
but this is only open during the summer months and
a couple of casa rurales.
from here until Triacastela the Camino starts to
descend. From Fonfría walk down a track parallel
to the road and then follow the markers into the
small village of Biduedo.
are a couple of hostals here, one of which has a
bar/restaurant. There is a tiny chapel dedicated
to San Pedro on the side of the road.
track now descends down to the small hamlet of Filloval
and then on through to the hamlet of As Pasantes
where you will find a small hostal and an unusually
shaped chestnut tree that locals claim to be around
800 years old.
continue down the track downhill into Ramil and
through the hamlet for about 6.5 kilometres passing
a refugio at the entrance to the small town of Triacastela.
town of Triacastela is said to have been
founded in the 9th century by Conde Gatón, the same
man whose wife built the pilgrim hospital at Hospital
da Condesa, but there are remains of Castros (hill
forts) in the area which shows that the area was
inhabited many thousands of years before. The king
Alfonso IX thought of Triacastela as an important
strategic town in what he called los Alpes Gallegos,
or the Galician Alps. The name of Triacastela could
come from three castles that may have stood here,
but there are 3 castros, Triacastela, Lagares and
San Adrián in the vicinity so it could also refer
to them, in any case all that remains of these is
their symbol on the town's coat of arms.
of the tourist sites in Triacastela have a link
to the Camino. The main one is that of the Pilgrim
Monument. During the Middle Ages when the cathedral
was being built in Santiago it was tradition that
the pilgrims travelling through Triacastela would
pick up limestone and take it along with them to
the lime kilns in Castañeda, nearly 100 kilometres
away. That way each pilgrim would feel that they
have contributed to the construction and maintenance
of the Saint's resting place.
town used to have a number of pilgrim hospitals
but only one of those remain and that is now being
used as a private house I believe. There are a number
of places where you can stay including 4 albergues
and 4 hostals and various restaurants and café/bars.
à CF description
at wanadoo.fr - 07/01/2014